How do you define the Rolex Oyster Perpetual? It is in many regards one of Rolex’s most versatile collections with steel cases measuring from 28mm-41mm, vibrant and colourful dials with sunray finishing, polished bezels and steel bracelets. Plus, it has an aesthetic that artfully rides the line between dressy and sporty that makes it appropriate for all occasions. That is, assuming you can afford the £4,600 – £5,400 that they can cost depending on their price. And that’s at retail, let alone the £10,000+ that specific references can reach on the secondary market. So, what are the best affordable alternatives to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual?
Citizen Tsuyosa
The Citizen Tsuyosa fits right in the pocket of Oyster Perpetual style watches with its 40mm stainless steel case, round dial and colourful dials. There are variety of colours available just like the OP, including turquoise and yellow, which is a particular highlight. There is a notable aesthetic difference in the shape of the case but that’s because the Tsuyosa has a tonneau case and integrated bracelet, which is more of a seventies interpretation of sports luxe while the OP draws its aesthetic codes from the early Oysters of the 1920s and 30s. At just £299, it’s the ideal affordable alternative to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
Citizen Tsuyosa
40mm diameter x 11.7mm thickness, stainless steel
Black, blue, yellow, green or turquoise
50m (5 bar)
Citizen calibre 8210, automatic, 21 jewels
21,600 vph (3 Hz)
40h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£299
More details at Citizen.
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander
What makes the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Automatic in Mulberry Red a great alternative to the OP is the combination of the steel case, sunray brushed dial and steel bracelet. In fact, the bracelet is brand new to Christopher Ward, it’s a five-link piece called the Consort Bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links. It really enhances the dress watch/sports watch dichotomy as it more or less fits both.
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Automatic
36mm diameter x 10.75mm thickness, stainless steel
Mulberry red, white or black
150m (15 bar)
Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
38h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£840
More details at Christopher Ward.
Charlie Paris Alliance
At time of writing, the Charlie Paris Alliance is available for pre-order and just like the Rolex OP, is a watch designed for everyday and every occasion. It has a 39.5mm diameter case in steel with brushed finishing along the top of the bezel and polishing on the flanks. The dial is a classy time and date display, but what makes the Alliance special is what’s below the dial. It houses the G100 calibre from La Joux Perret with a 68-hour power reserve.
Charlie Paris Alliance
39.5mm diameter x 8mm thickness, stainless steel
Sandblasted blue with cut out outer flange for the minute track
30m (3 bar)
La joux-Perret calibre G100, automatic, 24 jewels
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
68h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
€1,548 (approx. £1,425)
More details at Charlie Paris.
Longines Flagship
Longines produce an incredibly diverse range of watches from pilots to divers to ultra-refined dress watches. So, it’s not a surprise that within their collections you can find a classy 40mm steel sports watch with an understated dial. Specifically, we’re talking about the Flagship, a time and date model that was first launched back in 1954 and has been a collection staple ever since. It’s powered by the Calibre L888 with a great 72-hour power reserve.
Longines Flagship
L4.984.4.92.6
38.5mm diameter x 8.2mm thickness, stainless steel
Blue, black, white or silver
30m (3 bar)
Longines calibre L888, automatic
25,500 vph (2.5 Hz)
72h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£1,550
More details at Longines.
Ball Marvelight Chronometer
The Engineer III Marvelight is, despite its rather impressive sounding name, one of Ball’s most low-key timepieces. That doesn’t mean that it’s any less rugged than the usual element-defying references in the watchmaker’s collection, just that it’s one of the more aesthetically restrained of the lot. In fact, it’s one of the few you’d actually call elegant. It measures 40mm in diameter with an ice blue dial that’s reminiscent of everyone’s favourite buzz word colour: Tiffany blue.
Ball Watches Engineer III Marvelight
40mm diameter x 12.45mm thickness, stainless steel
Ice blue, burgundy red, green, grey, navy blue or black
100m (10 bar)
Ball calibre BALL RR1103-C, automatic, COSC-certified
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
38h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£1,924
More details at Ball Watches.
Tag Heuer Carrera Date
In 2023 Tag Heuer have been celebrating the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, one of their emblematic chronograph – in fact they just launched a golden edition to cap off the celebrations. However, in our focus at the moment is the non-chronograph time and date model at 36mm. It’s available in a variety of colours including a very unusual fuchsia which makes the sunray brushing absolutely shine.
Tag Heuer Carrera Date
36mm diameter, stainless steel
Pink, grey or green
100m (10 bar)
Tag Heuer calibre 7, automatic
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
56h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£2,750
More details at Tag Heuer.
Nomos Glashütte Neomatik
The Nomos Glashütte Neomatik Club 39 Smoke is perhaps the most stylistically different to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual with its bold numerals and small seconds subdial, but conceptually it makes for a great alternative to the OP. Primarily that’s because it’s an understated daily beater with a sporty vibe. It takes the same formula as the OP but the result different, much more German, much more Bauhaus.
Nomos Glashütte Neomatik Club 39 Smoke
39.5mm diameter x 8.4mm thickness, 49.5mm lug to lug, stainless steel
Galvanised grey, brown or copper
200m (20 bar)
Nomos calibre DUW 3001, automatic, 27 jewels
21,600 vph (3 Hz)
43h
Hours, minutes, seconds
Stainless steel bracelet
£2,820
More details at Nomos.
Seiko King Seiko
We’re really in the luxe alternatives now that are almost as expensive as the Rolex in the first place. The Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L is a fabulous 38.6mm steel watch with a sunray brushed dial, baton hour markers and a facetted case. It’s a relatively recent revival watch based on the original 1960s models that were produced in the rival factory to Grand Seiko. It’s powered by the 6L35 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve.
King Seiko KSK 6L
38.6mm diameter x 107mm thickness, stainless steel
Silver coloured, black or white
50m (5 bar)
Seiko calibre 6L35, automatic, 26 jewels
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
45h
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Stainless steel bracelet
£2,900
More details at Seiko Boutique.
Tudor Black Bay 36
Considering that Tudor is Rolex’s sister company and while they’ve done their best to distance themselves from the designs of Rolex, you can still tell that there’s some shared DNA. The Black Bay 36 is part of the 31/36/39/41 collection which are Tudor’s understated, plain bezel versions. As opposed to the main diving watch edition of the Black Bay or the 58. Of course, there is still a little diving heritage seen in the BB 36 with the circular hour markers but for the most part, it’s a stylish sports watch.
Tudor Black Bay 36
36mm diameter, stainless steel
Blue
100m (10 bar)
Tudor calibre MT5400, automatic, COSC-certified
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
70h
Hours, minutes, seconds
Stainless steel bracelet
£3,260
More details at Tudor.
Oracle Time