A few years back, we worked with watch artist Inkdial to create some iconic horological outlines of watches defined by one signature element. It was a cool, hand-drawn selection you can check out here. But ahead of his live appearance at Hands On Horology, we’ve decided to revisit the concept with a second octet of famous faces.
So, if you want to give yourself a little quiz, block out the names and see if you can guess what the watch is. And bear in mind we’ve picked some absolute icons, so if you can’t… well, you might need a bit of self-educating. I’m sure we have the right revision materials on here somewhere.
A Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1
The pairing of a large, main dial and off-centre small seconds is already recognisable enough that you should be shouting the answer – ideally with a German accent – as soon as you see this one. But it’s the large date window that really hammers home A. Lange & Söhne’s refined Saxon style credentials. The Grande Lange 1 has become the definitive face of fine German watchmaking and long may it reign.
Dirty Dozen Field Watch
Now, this could apply to any of the 12 watches built for the Ministry of Defence during WWII. They all had the same small seconds layout and practical, field watch ruggedness. The reason you can tell any of them from your standard small seconds however is that little symbol at 12 o’clock: the broad arrow. You see that, it means MoD and in watch circles, that means the Dirty Dozen.
Cartier Santos
While it doesn’t fall into the blueprint of a classic pilots’ watch, the Cartier Santos did get there first and, in line with the Parisian giant’s propensity for unique silhouettes, has very much gone its own way. With the riveted, square case blending into the equally riveted bracelet, it might have its genesis way back in 1904 but it’s as modern as it’s ever been.
Ulysse Nardin Freak
You could put this contraption in any case shape you can think of, but it will always remain the Freak. Ludwig Oeschlin’s opus combines indicator, movement and carousel into one haute horology icon, one that Ulysse Nardin have been riffing on ever since – and that’s all before we even get into the original’s ground-breaking use of silicon components.
Vacheron Constantin 222
Flat planes, notched bezel, a faceted, sporty look with an integrated bracelet… while I could be describing any number of 70s-style sports watches, the 222 breathes the rarefied air of prestige. Even if that signature bezel – the progenitor of the modern Overseas – doesn’t make the brand instantly recognisable for you, that inset Maltese cross is much less subtle of an indicator.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
The Rolex Submariner laid the blueprint for 70% of dive watches in the world. But for the other, much more handsome 30%, there’s the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. It’s an elegant twist on rugged diver style, but the singular element that sets it apart is the bezel. The round, sapphire bezel is one of the most tactile (and hardwearing) around, oft copied, never equalled.
Panerai Radiomir
Sandwich dial, cushion case, Panerai. There doesn’t really need to be much more of a checklist than that. And while it could apply to the entire Panerai range (bar the niche Mare Nostrum), the crown protector-less Radiomir is the icon, heir to the legacy of the Italian Frogmen. These days it’s often as much a dress watch as a diver, but the military look is still unmistakable.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Tricompax chronographs are common enough that you could have some difficulty deciding which watch this particular layout actually belongs to. But between the dished subdials, that diamond-pointed second hand and perhaps most tellingly, the iron sights at 12 o’clock, this is firmly Omega’s Buzz Aldrin blessed Moonwatch. Ideally, you’d be looking at this under a hesalite crystal.
Oracle Time