British Watchmakers’ Day 2025 has quickly become a highlight in my watch calendar. Launched last year, it proved the growing thirst for British horology and the value of a live, London-based event.
This year, Oracle Time had a media partner stand, promoting our own upcoming event, our expanded membership, and our latest collaboration watches. Manning the stand and handing out publications, I spoke with collectors from all over at this second gathering. I also found time to connect with brands, fellow journalists, and content creators—conversations that offered insights only possible through face-to-face interaction
British Watches Are More Creative Than Ever
With a strong turnout of 50 brands, it’s clear that creativity in British watchmaking is reaching a crescendo. Whether it’s Studio Underd0g’s clever marketing campaign (put together by Andrew Morgan Watches), Beaucroft’s collaboration with artist Penfold, or Mr Jones’ artistic partnership with illustrator Mister Phil, independent brands are pushing boundaries and fulfilling the appetite of passionate collectors.
This creativity was on full display in the event-exclusive special editions. Schofield’s artistic enamel casebacks, designed by Benjamin Guffee, and Christopher Ward’s C1 Moonphase Mission to Maidenhead, which humorously planted a British flag on the lunar surface, showcased the willingness of British watchmakers to experiment with bold concepts.
The Hunger for Live Events Is Growing
Tickets were like gold dust—across multiple watch-collecting WhatsApp groups, people were scrambling for last-minute access. This proves that live watch shows remain in high demand. The ability to meet the makers, hear the stories and experience watches firsthand is what makes these events special.
One brand that embraced the live theme more than most was Bōken, unveiling its Breacher collection with a live dial painting by The Dial Artist—an experience that truly had to be seen to be appreciated. We’re looking to build on this momentum with Hands On Horology, our own event launching on June 14th in London.
Content Creators Are Becoming Brands
Time+Tide showcasing their donut watch cases a BWD, image credit: Time+Tide
From Time+Tide selling donut-shaped watch cases in their signature dynamic style to Bark & Jack’s expansion into coffee and high-quality merch, content creators are leveraging their influence to build legitimate businesses. Their ability to blend storytelling with commerce is shaping new business models within the industry.
These creators are also becoming miniature celebrities in their own right, with people queuing for Andrew Morgan Watches badges or a selfie with Andrew McUtchen, the man behind Time+Tide.
Small Brands Are Making a Big Impact
Morgan Stanley’s latest Watch Industry report highlights declining sales for major ‘mid-tier luxury’ brands (excluding the top five), partly due to economic conditions but also a shift in consumer preferences. Enthusiasts are moving towards niche, independent designs that offer exclusivity, affordability, and increasingly competitive quality. With improved after-sales care and a personal touch, small brands are starting to rival mid-tier luxury watchmakers.
I was fortunate enough to purchase a Fears x Studio Underd0g Gimlet at the show and was pleasantly surprised to find that this purchase granted me a lifetime membership to the Fears Club, despite it being half another brand. Examples like this are driving the shift towards more independent brands.
Collaboration is Key
There’s a reason Instagram’s collaboration post option is so popular. Creativity in watchmaking is increasingly being driven by partnerships. Whether it’s the paradigm-shifting Studio Underd0g working with the classical Fears, or the numerous brands working with artists and illustrators, if you’re not collaborating you’re missing out on access to whole new audiences. On top of this, collectors are collaborating also.
I met at least a dozen people showcasing their very own limited-edition or bespoke projects on their wrist at the fair, enticing fellow collectors with real life prototypes. This trend has been growing over the past few years, particularly among the watch communities on WhatsApp and Telegram and I think it’s here to stay.
More details at British Watch and Clock Makers.
Oracle Time